Plumbing questions, answered by plumbers

It depends on what's wrong, so we don't guess over the phone. A licensed plumber diagnoses the problem first, then you get your options and prices in writing. Nothing starts until you approve.

Yes. Call 864-438-0525 and tell us it's urgent. Active leaks, sewer backups and no-water calls are put first in line during business hours. After hours, our answering service takes your call and the office follows up. Shut off the main water valve while you wait.

Yes. Financing is available on larger projects such as water heater replacement and repiping. Ask the office or your plumber for details.

Towns across the Upstate, including Greenville, Taylors, Mauldin, Greer, Simpsonville and Spartanburg. See the full list on our service area page, or call 864-438-0525 to check your address.

Not exactly. It is an electric water heater that heats water on demand like a tankless unit, but it uses about 55 gallons of stored water as a heat battery. You get steady hot water without the electrical demands of a whole-home electric tankless heater.

Usually not. The EXR runs on a 240-volt, 25-amp circuit, similar to a standard electric water heater. Whole-home electric tankless units often need far more. We confirm your panel on the first visit.

Essency rates the EXR at 80 gallons of hot water in the first hour, from a unit the size of a 55-gallon tank. Heat+ mode stretches that further for larger households.

No. The water in the tank never changes, so sediment and scale do not build up inside it, and there is no anode rod to replace.

Yes, if you have a 240-volt circuit available or can add one. Switching from gas also removes the need for venting and a gas line to the heater.

Essency warranties the tank for 20 years and the heat exchanger for 6 years, transferable to a new owner. Our written price lists the warranty for your install.

Yes. Plumbing financing through GoodLeap is available on water heater installs, subject to credit approval.

Most often a tripped breaker or reset on an electric heater, or a pilot that went out on a gas heater.

Usually about an hour for a full tank. A tankless unit heats on demand.

Usually a worn thermocouple or a dirty pilot assembly, sometimes a draft or a failing gas valve.

The heater is working. The cold fixture likely has a worn cartridge or mixing valve.

If the heater is under about 10 years old, a repair usually makes sense. Past 10 to 12 years, compare it with replacement.

Often. Call early in the day; Call 864-438-0525 and we will give you the first available time.

If the tank itself is leaking, or the unit is near the end of its expected life, replacement usually costs less over time. If a part like a thermostat, element or valve has failed, a repair often makes sense. We show you both options with written prices.

Most tank water heaters last about 8 to 12 years. Tankless units often last 15 to 20 years with regular descaling. Hard water and skipped maintenance shorten both.

Tankless units cost more up front but supply hot water on demand, take less space and last longer. They make the most sense for households that run out of hot water or plan to stay in the home for years.

Yes. Ethical Plumbing is Navien certified, so we install Navien tankless water heaters to the manufacturer’s standards. We also install and service Rinnai and other major brands.

It depends on the unit size and whether your home needs a larger gas line, new venting or electrical work. You get a written price for each option before work starts.

Many tankless units last 15 to 20 years with yearly descaling, compared with about 8 to 12 years for a tank.

Not if it is sized correctly. A tankless unit heats water as it flows, so the limit is how many fixtures run at once, not a tank running empty.

The unit costs more, and many homes need a larger gas line, new venting or electrical work. You get that cost back over time through a longer life and no standby heat loss.

Yes. Flushing the heat exchanger once a year removes mineral scale, more often on well water. We install service valves so this is quick.

Hot water still has to travel through the pipes, just as with a tank. A recirculation (comfort) pump can bring hot water to the faucet in seconds.

We install the Essency EXR, an electric on-demand water heater that runs on a standard 240-volt circuit. Whole-home electric tankless units often need a panel upgrade and lose flow in cold weather, so the EXR is our electric choice. Learn about the EXR.

Yes. Financing is also available through GoodLeap.

Usually, yes, though the venting and gas line often change. We check the location and tell you before we quote.

Yes. We are Navien certified and also service Rinnai and other major brands, gas and electric.

A short burst of cold water between hot, usually when you turn the tap off and on again. It is normal for tankless to some degree; a recirculation pump or a small buffer tank reduces it.

Once a year is a good rule on city water. Homes on well water, or with hard water, may need it every six months.

If service valves were installed, many homeowners can. Without them, the job requires cutting into the lines, so call us.

Codes point to the system that tripped, such as ignition, flow, overheat or venting. The code tells us where to start, not always the root cause.

Usually, if the heat exchanger is sound. If the exchanger is leaking or badly scaled after years without service, replacement may make more sense.

A clogged inlet filter or scale in the heat exchanger restricts flow. Cleaning the filter and descaling usually restores it.

Yes. We diagnose and repair tankless units from all major manufacturers, gas and electric.

Units on exterior walls can freeze if power is lost during a hard freeze. Most have freeze protection that needs power to work.

Common causes are a failing temperature and pressure relief valve, a loose connection, or a corroded tank. A leak from the tank body usually means replacement. Shut off the water supply to the heater and call us.

On gas units it is often the pilot, thermocouple or gas supply. On electric units it is usually a tripped breaker, a failed element or a thermostat. If resetting the breaker does not help, call us for a diagnosis.

If your home has a check valve, backflow preventer or pressure regulator on the main line, yes. Most homes in the Upstate do.

Typically 5 to 10 years, depending on water pressure and quality.

It depends on the water heater size and your water pressure. A 2-gallon tank is common for a 40- or 50-gallon heater at normal household pressure.

Tankless units hold very little water, so many installations do not, but local code and the manufacturer’s instructions decide.

A failed or missing expansion tank is one of the most common causes, followed by high water pressure and a thermostat set too high.

Yes. Repeated pressure spikes strain the tank, relief valve and fittings and can shorten the heater’s life.

Once a year for most homes. Homes on hard well water may benefit from more often.

Yes, if you are comfortable with it: turn off power or gas, attach a hose to the drain valve, and drain to a safe spot. If the valve is old or the tank has never been flushed, have a plumber do it.

Usually sediment on the bottom of the tank. Flushing often quiets it.

About 120°F for most homes. It saves energy and lowers the risk of scalding.

A plumber removes and inspects it. If it is worn to the core wire over much of its length, replace it.

Yes. Clean the inlet filter and descale the heat exchanger about once a year, more often with hard water.

Most repairs take a few hours. If a part has to be ordered, we tell you before we leave and schedule the return visit.

Close the cold water valve on top of the heater. Turn off the gas valve, or switch off the breaker for an electric heater. Then call 864-438-0525.

You can safely reset a tripped breaker or relight a pilot by following the label on the tank. Anything involving gas parts, wiring or the relief valve should be handled by a licensed plumber.

Yes. We service tankless units, including descaling, sensor and ignition repairs. See tankless water heater repair for details.

Bacteria in the water can react with the tank’s anode rod and make a sulfur smell. Flushing the tank and switching to a different anode rod usually solves it.

Common causes are a failed lower heating element, a broken dip tube, heavy sediment, or a tank that is too small for the household. A diagnosis tells you which.

The relief valve lets out pressure so the tank cannot burst. Dripping can mean the water pressure is too high or the valve is failing. Never cap or plug it; call us to test it.

A straight replacement of a tank heater usually takes a few hours. Moving the heater, changing fuel type or switching to tankless can take most of a day.

Two or three people usually do well with 40 to 50 gallons. Larger households often need 50 to 75 gallons or a tankless unit. We size it to your household and the fixtures you use at the same time.

Tankless makes sense if you run out of hot water, want to free up space, or plan to stay in the home for years. It costs more up front and may need gas line or venting changes. We price both so you can compare.

We disconnect and remove it as part of the replacement, so you are not left with a tank in the garage.

Yes. Attic and upstairs heaters need a drain pan piped to a safe spot, and we recommend a leak sensor so a slow leak does not come through the ceiling.

Yes. Financing is available through GoodLeap on water heater replacement, and VIP Prevention Plan members get 0% financing options.

Yes. They need more space and airflow than a standard tank, so we check the location first and tell you if it is a good fit.

A straight swap of a tank water heater usually takes a few hours. Switching to tankless, or moving the heater, can take a full day because gas, venting or electrical work may change.

Yes. We repair and replace tank and tankless water heaters from all major manufacturers, gas and electric.

If your home has natural gas, a gas heater recovers faster and usually costs less to run. Electric is simpler where there is no gas line. Heat pump electric heaters use far less power but cost more up front.

It depends on size, fuel type and venting. You get a written price for each option before any work starts.

It keeps hot water close to your faucets, so it arrives in seconds instead of minutes, and less water goes down the drain while you wait.

A steady leak or water from the tank is urgent: shut off the power or gas and the cold water valve, then call. A slow drip from a fitting can usually wait for a scheduled visit.

A tank with a working relief valve should not. That valve is why you should never cap or plug it, even if it drips.

Usually thermal expansion, high water pressure or a temperature set too high. A failed or missing expansion tank is a common cause.

Not if the leak is from the tank or the relief valve. Turn it off until a plumber looks at it.

Most tank heaters last about 8 to 12 years. Regular flushing and anode checks help them reach the upper end.

Many policies cover sudden water damage but not the heater itself. Check your policy and take photos before cleanup.

Flush the tank yearly, check the anode rod, keep the temperature near 120°F, and make sure an expansion tank is installed where needed.

Watch for a water bill that jumps without explanation, stains on ceilings or walls, warm spots on the floor, the sound of running water when everything is off, or a water meter that moves with no taps open.

Turn off the main water shutoff right away, switch off the water heater, and move valuables away from the water. Then call 864-438-0525. Our phone line answers around the clock.

Repiping is worth considering when leaks keep coming back, the water is discolored, pressure has dropped throughout the house, or the home still has galvanized or polybutylene pipe.

Rust and sediment are mostly a taste and staining problem, but avoid drinking it until it clears, and follow any notice from your water provider.

The break and repair stir up sediment in the main. Running the cold tap usually clears it within hours.

Yes. Wait until the water runs clear before doing laundry.

The water heater is the likely source: rust in the tank or sediment on the bottom.

Yes. We test first so any filter we recommend matches what is in your water.

In crawl space homes, usually where the water line enters near the front wall. In slab homes, often in the garage or a utility closet. There is also a shutoff at the meter.

Our phone line answers around the clock, but our plumbers do not work overnight. Shut off the main water valve and call; urgent calls go first in line.

Many policies cover sudden water damage. Coverage for the pipe itself varies. Take photos before cleanup and call your insurer.

The broken section is replaced. If the pipe is failing elsewhere, we discuss replacing more.

Look for water stains, bulging drywall, the sound of running water, or the water meter moving with everything off.

If hot water lines are involved or you shut off the main for long, turn off the gas or power to the heater.

Urgent calls go first in line during business hours. Call 864-438-0525 and tell us what is happening.

We repair the plumbing. For drying and restoration, we can recommend a water damage company.

Pipes in unheated spaces are at risk when it drops into the low 20s or below, especially with wind or for several hours.

Yes, on very cold nights let faucets on outside walls drip. Moving water is less likely to freeze.

With gentle heat, often 30 minutes to a few hours. If it does not thaw, the frozen section may be somewhere you cannot reach.

No. Open flames can start fires and can damage pipe. Use a hair dryer, space heater at a safe distance, or warm towels.

Look and listen for water as it thaws, and watch the water meter with everything off. A moving meter means a leak.

For vacant homes, shutting off the main and draining the lines is the safest choice. We drain the lines for second homes and homes left empty for the winter; call 864-438-0525 to schedule it before the first hard freeze.

Many policies do, if the home was heated and reasonably maintained. Check your policy.

Yes. We insulate, reroute or protect problem pipes so they stop freezing.

Yes. An automatic shutoff valve with leak sensors closes the main if a pipe bursts while no one is home.

A running toilet alone can waste hundreds of gallons a day. Even a slow drip adds up over a billing cycle.

Your water provider handles its side of the meter. Leaks between the meter and the house are the homeowner’s.

Yes. Toilets, leaks under slabs and main line leaks often show no water inside the house.

Some providers offer a one-time adjustment once the leak is repaired. Ask your provider and keep the repair invoice.

Acoustic listening, thermal imaging and pressure tests pinpoint the spot, so we open only what we need to.

Usually not. We bore under driveways, sidewalks and roads to repair or replace the line, so the pavement above stays in place and you are not paying to replace concrete or asphalt too.

Most leak detection visits take a few hours. Large homes, slab leaks and yard lines can take longer.

Usually, yes. The equipment lets us pinpoint most leaks first, so the repair opens only the spot that needs it.

A slab leak is a leak in a water line under a concrete floor. Warm spots on the floor, the sound of running water and a high bill are common signs.

Not always. Running toilets and irrigation systems are common causes. A meter test tells us quickly whether water is escaping somewhere you cannot see.

Turn off every faucet and water-using appliance. Find your meter and note the reading, or watch the small leak indicator. If it moves in the next 15 minutes with nothing running, water is escaping somewhere.

Yes. Mold can start growing on wet building materials within 24 to 48 hours, which is why finding a hidden leak early matters.

It depends on your policy. Many cover sudden water damage but not the pipe repair itself or slow, long-term leaks. Ask us for photos of what we find to share with your insurer.

You get your repair options in writing, such as a spot repair, a reroute around a slab, or replacing a section of pipe. Nothing starts until you approve.

Yes. We install leak sensors and automatic shutoff valves that close the main water line when a leak is detected. They are a good fit for second homes, rentals and water heaters in attics.

Water chemistry, high water pressure and age are the usual causes. Several pinholes usually mean more are coming.

Yes. We open only as much as needed to reach the pipe and can recommend someone to patch the drywall.

No. Clamps are for emergencies. A proper repair replaces the damaged section.

It is usually gray plastic pipe, often stamped PB, common in homes built from the late 1970s to the mid 1990s.

One leak on healthy pipe is a repair. Repeated leaks or failing pipe material across the house usually means repiping costs less over time.

Many policies cover sudden water damage but not the pipe repair itself. Check with your insurer.

Most repairs are finished in one visit.

Turn off the water to the fixture or the main shutoff, and move anything that could be damaged.

Shut off the main water valve, then call us. If the leak is near electrical outlets or appliances, turn off power to that area.

One failed spot on healthy pipe is a repair. Repeated leaks on aging pipe usually mean replacing it costs less over time. We show you both options.

Look where the water line enters the house or at the water heater. Gray plastic is often polybutylene; dull gray metal with threaded joints is galvanized. We can identify it on a visit.

That is water hammer, caused by water stopping suddenly. Loose pipe straps or high water pressure make it worse, and it can loosen fittings over time.

Household pressure above about 80 psi strains pipes, fixtures and water heaters. A pressure reducing valve keeps it in a safe range.

Yes. Options include a spot repair through the slab or rerouting the line through walls or the attic. We explain the trade-offs and prices.

Many policies cover sudden water damage but not the pipe repair itself. Check your policy, and ask us for photos of what we find.

Usually not. We bore under driveways, sidewalks and roads and pull the new line through, so the pavement above stays in place.

The water utility owns the line up to the meter. The homeowner owns the line from the meter to the house.

Turn off every faucet and appliance, then watch the meter. If the dial or leak indicator moves, water is escaping somewhere.

Many residential replacements are done in a day, depending on length and what is in the way.

Usually PE or PEX rated for underground service, matched to local code and your water pressure.

No. Leaks between the meter and the house are the homeowner’s responsibility. Some utilities offer a leak adjustment on the bill after a repair, so keep your receipt.

A large leak is. Shut off the main valve at the house or meter and call 864-438-0525.

Financing is available through GoodLeap.

Most homes do well around 50 to 60 psi. Plumbing code caps it at 80 psi.

Look where the main line enters the house, often in the crawl space or near the water heater, for a bell-shaped brass valve with an adjusting screw on top.

Typically 7 to 12 years, sometimes longer with good water.

Small adjustments are possible, but if the pressure keeps creeping up, the valve is failing and adjusting will not fix it.

Check whether neighbors are affected. If not, suspect a failed regulator, a main line leak or a closed valve.

It can. Higher pressure pushes more water through every fixture and makes leaks worse.

Usually not. Water is off only for parts of the day, and we plan the work so you can stay. If you need to be out for a day, we tell you in advance.

New pipe removes a common inspection concern, especially galvanized or polybutylene pipe, which can help when you sell.

If leaks keep coming back in different places, the pipe is failing as a whole and repiping usually costs less over time. We show you both options with prices.

Yes. Financing is available through GoodLeap on larger projects like whole-home repiping.

It depends on the size of the home, the number of bathrooms, the material and how easy the pipes are to reach. You get a written price after we look at the house, before any work starts.

Some small openings are needed to reach the pipes. Flexible PEX lets us use small access openings instead of opening whole walls, and we show you where every opening will be before we start.

Polybutylene is a gray plastic pipe used in many homes built from the late 1970s to the mid 1990s. It is known to fail without warning, and some insurers will not cover homes that have it, so we recommend replacing it.

Yes. PEX made for household water lines is certified for drinking water, and it is one of the most widely used piping materials in new homes.

Repeated clogs usually point to buildup deeper in the line, such as grease, scale or tree roots, rather than a problem at the drain itself. A camera inspection shows exactly what is causing it.

Hydro-jetting clears a drain or sewer line with high-pressure water. It removes grease, scale and roots from the pipe walls instead of just punching a hole through the clog.

We don't recommend them. They can damage older pipes and rarely clear the real cause. A plunger or a professional cleaning is the safer route.

Usually, yes. We run a camera through the line first to check its condition, and we recommend jetting only when the pipe can handle it.

Most homes only need a cleaning when there is a problem. Homes with recurring clogs, large trees near the sewer line, or restaurants and other businesses benefit from a yearly maintenance cleaning.

The usual causes are a dried-out drain trap in a rarely used sink or floor drain, a failed toilet wax ring, a blocked vent, or a problem in the sewer line. Run water in unused drains first; if the smell stays, call us.

Yes. Roots find small cracks and joints and grow inside the pipe. A camera inspection confirms it, hydro-jetting clears them, and we show you repair options if the pipe is damaged.

Grease and cooking oil, wipes (including “flushable” ones), coffee grounds, eggshells, and paper towels. They are the most common causes of the clogs we clear.

Yes. We clear main lines through the cleanout. If your home does not have an accessible cleanout, we explain the options before starting.

Usually because the pipe itself is damaged: a sag, crack or root intrusion that catches waste. A camera inspection shows which one.

Often, yes. A damaged section can be cut out and replaced, leaving the healthy pipe in place.

Often 50 to 70 years, though it varies with water and soil. Many Upstate homes built mid-century are reaching that point.

Yes. We explain the options, including access through the floor or rerouting, and their prices before starting.

A low spot where the pipe has sunk, so water and waste sit there instead of draining. It causes repeated clogs.

Policies vary. Many cover resulting water damage but not the pipe itself. We can provide camera footage for your claim.

Most spot repairs in a crawl space take a day or less. Slab and yard repairs take longer.

Yes. See our sewer line repair page.

If more than one fixture is slow or backing up, especially the lowest ones in the house, the clog is likely in the main line. One slow sink is usually a local clog.

It shows roots, cracks, sags, offsets and buildup inside the pipe, and how far from the cleanout they are, so we can recommend the right fix.

Snaking punches a hole through a clog. Hydro-jetting scrubs the pipe wall clean, which keeps grease and roots from coming back as quickly.

Yes. Hydro-jetting or cutting clears them, but they grow back if the joint they entered stays open. A repair at that spot is the long-term fix.

Generally the homeowner is responsible for the line from the house to the city connection. The city handles the main in the street. We can tell you where yours connects.

We clear and repair the drain line from the house to the septic tank. Pumping the tank itself is done by a septic company.

It depends on which line is clogged, whether there is a cleanout, and the method needed. You get a written price before work starts.

For pipe in sound condition, yes. That is why we inspect with a camera first and adjust pressure to the pipe material.

It depends on the line, access and how heavy the buildup is. You get a written price before work starts.

Much longer than snaking, because the pipe wall is cleaned. Roots will eventually return through an open joint unless it is repaired.

Yes. Jetting cuts roots out of the line. A repair at the joint where they entered is the long-term fix.

A cleanout is the best access point. If your home does not have one, we can install one.

No. The water goes down the drain line, and we protect the work area.

Yes. Restaurant and commercial kitchen lines are among the best uses for jetting.

A single simple clog can be snaked. Recurring clogs, grease and roots are better jetted. We recommend after the camera inspection.

The main line is blocked, so water from the toilet backs up to the lowest drain, which is often the tub.

Avoid it. Every flush adds water that will come up the lowest drain.

If sewage is coming up into the house, yes. Stop using water and call.

A capped access pipe on the sewer line, usually outside near the foundation, used to clear and inspect the line.

Keep grease and wipes out of the drains, and have the line cleaned and inspected if you have large trees or an older clay or cast iron line.

It might be. If the tank is due for pumping, call a septic company. If the tank is fine, the line between the house and the tank may be blocked, which we clear.

Usually under an hour once we have access to the line.

A cleanout is the easiest access, but we can also go in through a toilet or vent. If you have no cleanout, we can install one.

Yes. We review it with you on site and can share it for your records or an insurance claim.

For homes over 20 years old or with large trees, yes. A sewer line replacement is one of the most expensive surprises after closing.

Yes. Roots are one of the most common things we find, usually at clay or cast iron joints.

We show you the repair options, from cleaning to spot repair to replacement, with written prices.

We inspect your line from the house to the connection. The main in the street belongs to the utility.

We recommend one whenever a clog keeps coming back, and before hydro jetting.

It depends on length, depth and what is in the way. You get a written price after the camera inspection.

Under driveways, walks and roads we bore so the surface stays intact. Elsewhere we dig only where needed and restore the area.

Clay and cast iron lines often last 50 to 70 years. PVC lasts longer. Roots and soil movement can shorten any of them.

Generally the homeowner owns the line from the house to the city connection. We can show where yours connects.

Jetting removes them, but they return through open joints. Repairing or replacing those joints stops them.

Yes. Stop using water in the house and call 864-438-0525. Sewage carries bacteria, so avoid contact.

Many residential replacements take one to two days, depending on length and access.

Usually, yes, because the joints that let them in are still there. How fast depends on the tree and the pipe.

Not necessarily. Repairing or replacing the damaged section of pipe usually solves the problem and saves the tree.

Foaming root treatments can slow regrowth in a sound pipe, but they do not repair the joint that lets roots in.

Many policies exclude roots and wear in sewer lines. Some offer a separate service line rider.

A camera with a locator shows the depth and location from the surface, so a repair opens only what it has to.

Rarely. A drain that clogs more than once or twice a year has buildup or a problem in the line.

No. They do not break down like toilet paper and are one of the most common causes of toilet and main line clogs.

Enzyme products can help keep a clean drain clear, but they will not open a full clog.

A clog itself rarely does, but water backing up can leak at joints, and chemical cleaners can damage older pipes.

High-pressure water that scours grease, scale and roots off the pipe walls, so clogs do not return as quickly.

Yes. We handle service, repairs, maintenance programs and renovation plumbing for offices, hotels, restaurants and multi-unit properties.

Yes. A commercial maintenance program puts your property on a regular inspection schedule, with documented findings and priority response.

Offices, restaurants, retail, medical offices, hotels, industrial sites and multi-unit residential properties.

Yes. Ethical Plumbing holds South Carolina mechanical contractor license CLM.117181, general contractor license CLG.127052 and North Carolina license L.38212.

We schedule around your hours wherever we can. Tell us your constraints when you request service or a bid.

Yes. A maintenance program puts your building on a regular inspection and service schedule, with priority when something fails.

Yes. We work with property managers across portfolios and can invoice by property, unit or cost code.

Commercial customers can apply for an account with our credit application, which asks for a W-9 and trade and bank references.

Yes. We handle the plumbing scope for renovations and tenant improvements and coordinate with your schedule.

Use the bid request page or call the office. Include the property, the scope and your timeline.

It depends on the building. Restaurants often need quarterly drain service; offices may need one or two visits a year. We set the schedule with you.

Yes. Buildings on a maintenance program are scheduled ahead of non-program calls.

It depends on the size of the building and what is included. You get a written proposal after a walkthrough.

Yes. We can build one program across a portfolio, with findings and invoices for each property.

Yes. You get written findings with photos after every visit.

No. The VIP Prevention Plan is for homes. Commercial programs are built around each building.

Yes. We descale and service commercial tankless units, and we are Navien certified.

Request a bid or call the office to schedule a walkthrough.

Yes. We phase work by floor or stack and isolate water so occupied rooms keep service.

Yes. We review submittals before rough-in so valves and drains match the specified fixtures.

Yes, including drains, valves and supply changes.

Yes. We repair or replace supply and drain risers, planned around occupancy.

We handle the plumbing permits and inspections required for our scope.

Yes. We hold SC mechanical and general contractor licenses and an NC license.

Send drawings, the room count and your phasing schedule through the bid request page.

Yes, with your approval. We contact the tenant, set access and keep you updated.

Yes. Every visit comes with photos and notes you can share with owners.

Yes. We work within your approval limit and send written options for anything above it.

Yes. We can match invoices to your properties, units or cost codes.

Yes. We work on shared lines and individual units, and can help sort out what belongs to the HOA versus the owner.

Yes. A maintenance program can cover several properties with one schedule.

Yes. Vacant units are at risk for frozen pipes. Ask us about protecting them before a freeze.

Call the office or request a bid. Commercial accounts can apply for credit with our credit application.

We provide written repair quotes within 24 hours of looking at the job.

As soon as the estimate is approved. We schedule repairs to meet the closing date whenever possible.

Yes. A pre-listing inspection lets sellers fix or price plumbing problems before buyers find them.

Yes, when the estimate is approved in time. We document the work for both sides.

Yes. We recommend one for homes over 20 years old or with mature trees near the sewer line.

Email support@ethicalplumbing.com or call 864-438-0525 and mention the Real Estate Division.

Yes. We price and complete plumbing for renovation projects and rentals.

Yes. We serve seven counties across the Upstate of South Carolina and western North Carolina.

Simple service work can often be priced quickly. Larger projects depend on drawings and a walkthrough; we will give you a timeline when we receive the request.

Yes. Send drawings and specs and we will price the plumbing scope.

Yes. We build programs around the building after a walkthrough.

Yes. We clear and hydro jet kitchen and floor drain lines to remove grease, not just open the clog.

Yes. We repair, replace and install grease traps and interceptors. Routine pumping is done by a licensed grease hauler.

It depends on volume and menu. Many busy kitchens benefit from jetting every few months.

We schedule early mornings and between shifts whenever possible so the kitchen can stay open.

Yes. We size and install tank and tankless systems for dish machines, handwashing and prep.

Yes. We run gas lines and connect ranges, fryers and other gas equipment. Repairs to the equipment itself go to the manufacturer’s service company.

Yes. Our maintenance program covers multiple locations with one point of contact.

Call 864-438-0525 or send the details through our bid request page.

No. We handle the plumbing for bathroom remodels and work alongside your contractor, who handles tile, cabinets and finishes.

Usually, yes. It depends on the floor structure and drain route. We look at it before you commit to a layout.

Yes, as long as it suits your water pressure and the wall depth. We check the model before rough-in.

If your home has galvanized or polybutylene pipe, yes. With the walls open, replacing it costs much less than later.

When the work requires a permit, we let you know and handle the plumbing portion.

Rough-in usually takes one to three days depending on what moves. Fixture installation happens after tile and finishes.

Yes. Curbless showers need planning at the framing stage so the floor can slope to a linear or center drain.

Yes. We coordinate schedules so plumbing is ready before walls close and fixtures go in after finishes.

Usually one to two hours for a replacement.

We connect existing power where it is ready. New circuits are done by an electrician.

Routing the drain hose up under the counter so dirty sink water cannot flow back into the dishwasher.

Often a clogged filter or a kinked or clogged drain connection. If the sink drains slowly too, the drain line may be the problem.

Yes. We run a new line with a shutoff, using braided or copper tubing instead of plastic.

Yes, including recessed outlet boxes with shutoffs and leak-stop valves.

Yes, we remove and dispose of it.

Usually, if there is cabinet space. It needs water, drain and power run to the spot.

Usually an hour or two, longer if shutoffs or supply lines need replacing.

Most run on batteries; some offer a plug-in adapter. We place the battery box where you can reach it.

Yes. If a new hole is needed, it is drilled by the countertop fabricator; we install the faucet.

Yes. It needs a water line run to the stove wall, which we price separately.

Yes, and we dispose of it.

Old supply lines can crack or leak once disturbed. New braided lines are inexpensive insurance.

Yes, along with drains, supply lines and other remodel plumbing.

We recommend brands with good warranties and available repair parts, and can suggest options for your budget.

Usually yes, for any quality faucet. Parts are inexpensive compared with a new faucet.

A clogged aerator or cartridge is the usual cause. If every faucet is weak, the problem may be water pressure or the pipes.

Check the supply lines, the faucet base and the drain connections. A leaking sprayer hose is a common culprit.

Most likely it froze with a hose attached. The faucet needs replacing; the wall should be checked for water.

Yes. Most single-handle faucets have a replaceable cartridge.

Usually. We identify the cartridge type and source the right part.

Most repairs take under an hour once we have the part.

If they are old or do not shut off fully, yes. We check them on every faucet call.

Yes. We install customer-supplied fixtures and check that every part is there before we start.

We check them and recommend replacing old ones. Old shutoffs often fail when they are finally turned.

Most faucets, toilets and disposals take an hour or two. Shower valves take longer because the wall has to be opened.

Yes, we remove and dispose of the old fixture.

Yes. A steady drip wastes a surprising amount of water over a year, and the worn part usually gets worse.

We handle the plumbing for remodels: moving drains and supply lines, new valves and fixture installs. See our bathroom plumbing page.

Members get 10% off repairs and half off the service call fee.

We install all major fixture brands and recommend models that hold up and have parts available.

Most last 8 to 15 years, depending on the model and how it is used.

On the bottom of the disposal under the sink, usually a small red button. Turn the switch off before pressing it.

No. Turn off the power at the switch and breaker and use the hex key on the bottom of the unit, or call us.

Grease, oil, bones, fibrous peels like celery and corn husks, coffee grounds, eggshells, pasta and rice.

Usually, yes. The sink needs a power outlet underneath and room for the unit. We check both first.

Yes, with a septic-rated model and more frequent tank pumping.

Leaks come from the sink flange at the top, the drain connections on the side, or the body of the unit. A leaking body means replacement.

Yes. We can install a disposal you purchased, or supply one.

No. We handle the plumbing for kitchen remodels and work alongside your contractor.

Usually, yes. An island sink needs a drain route through the floor and a venting method that works without a wall. We check before you commit to the layout.

Yes, with a shutoff you can reach and braided or copper tubing instead of plastic.

During a remodel, yes. Old valves often fail when they are finally turned.

Yes. We run new gas lines and hook up gas ranges and cooktops. We do not repair the appliances themselves.

Rough-in is usually one or two days. Final connections happen after cabinets and counters are set.

It depends on the problem and the part. You get a written price after the diagnosis and before any work starts.

Yes, a service call fee covers the visit and diagnosis. VIP Prevention Plan members pay half.

Yes. We repair fixtures, water heaters and equipment from all major brands.

Most common repairs are done on the first visit. Larger jobs are scheduled once you approve the written price.

Ask us about the warranty on your specific repair; we explain it with the written price.

Our phone line answers around the clock, and urgent calls go first in line during business hours.

Yes. We work with landlords and property managers, and can coordinate access with tenants.

Yes. Our lead plumbers are licensed at the Master level, and we hold South Carolina and North Carolina contractor licenses.

Yes. We serve homeowners, landlords and property managers, and commercial buildings including offices, restaurants, hotels and multi-unit properties.

Yes. Every job starts with a diagnosis, and you get your options with written prices before any work begins.

Yes. The VIP Prevention Plan includes a yearly safety inspection, front-of-the-line service, 10% off repairs and half off the service call fee for $275 a year.

Yes. We install customer-supplied faucets, toilets, disposals and water heaters, or supply them for you.

We do the plumbing for remodels: moving drains and supply lines, new valves and fixture installs. The rest of the remodel is done by your contractor.

Often, if there is an access panel behind the shower or the new trim covers the opening. Otherwise some tile must come out. We explain before starting.

Your valve is not pressure-balanced. A pressure-balanced or thermostatic valve fixes it.

Usually a few hours, plus any wall repair.

A valve that adjusts automatically when water pressure changes, so the temperature stays steady.

A few drips from water left in the showerhead is normal. A steady drip means a worn cartridge.

Usually a clogged showerhead or flow restrictor, or a partly blocked valve cartridge.

Yes. The diverter in the spout wears out and the spout is replaced.

Yes. We install valves, drains and supply lines for shower remodels.

Most replacements take an hour or two. Flange or subfloor repairs add time.

Yes. We check that all parts are in the box before we start.

A toilet with a seat about two inches taller than standard, closer to chair height.

Yes, we remove and dispose of it.

Only if the old one is broken, corroded or set at the wrong height. We check when the old toilet comes off.

Elongated bowls are more comfortable; round bowls fit smaller bathrooms. We measure your space.

We caulk the front and sides and leave the back open, so a future leak shows instead of hiding under the toilet.

A constantly running toilet can waste hundreds of gallons a day, which shows up quickly on your water bill.

The flapper is leaking slowly, so the tank refills every so often. Replacing the flapper usually fixes it.

Often, yes. Flappers and chain adjustments are simple. Fill valves and flush valves take more care.

If it is cracked, uses 3.5 gallons or more per flush, or needs several parts, replacement is often the better value.

That is a different problem: the supply line, the tank bolts or the wax ring. Call us before it damages the floor.

Lift the tank lid and check that the flapper seals and the float is not set too high. If it keeps running, the flapper or fill valve needs replacing.

Usually a failed wax ring or a loose toilet. Stop using it and call; leaks at the base can damage the subfloor.

Loose bolts, a broken flange or a damaged subfloor. A rocking toilet will eventually break the wax seal and leak.

Put a few drops of food coloring in the tank and wait 15 minutes without flushing. Color in the bowl means the flapper is leaking.

Usually not. Flappers and fill valves are inexpensive parts.

If the porcelain is cracked, the toilet is very old and inefficient, or it needs repairs often, replacement usually makes more sense.

Gurgling can mean a partial clog or a venting problem. If other drains gurgle too, the main line may be involved.

Yes. We repair all common brands and carry the most common parts.

Many Greenville homes on city water do not. Homes on wells often do. We test your water before recommending one.

A hard crust of salt in the brine tank that leaves a hollow space underneath, so water cannot reach the salt. The tank looks full but the softener stops working.

A well-maintained softener often lasts 10 to 15 years. The resin may need replacing sooner on iron-heavy well water.

Check monthly and keep the salt above the water line. Use the type of salt recommended for your system.

Yes. Hard water leaves scale in tanks and tankless heat exchangers. Soft water helps both last longer.

For most people, yes. Softening adds a small amount of sodium. If you are on a sodium-restricted diet, ask about a drinking water bypass.

A unit that regenerates based on the water you actually use, so it uses less salt and water than older timer-based models.

Yes. We diagnose and repair most brands, whoever installed them.

Many well pumps last 10 to 15 years. A waterlogged pressure tank or short cycling can shorten that a lot, which is why we check the tank on every pump call.

Rapid cycling usually means the pressure tank has lost its air charge or failed, or the pressure switch is faulty. Left alone, it burns out the pump.

Lightning and power surges often damage the pressure switch, control box or pump. Check the breaker first, then call us.

Yes. If the pump is healthy, replacing a failed tank is often all that is needed.

A variable-speed pump and controller that keep water pressure steady, so showers do not weaken when another tap opens.

No. We repair and replace pumps, tanks, controls and plumbing on existing wells. New wells are drilled by a licensed well driller.

A failing pump, a pump set too low, or a problem with the well itself can pull in sediment. We check the pump first, and a sediment filter protects your plumbing meanwhile.

No water at all is treated as urgent. Call 864-438-0525 and tell us what is happening.

A filter removes things like sediment, chlorine, iron or sulfur. A softener removes the calcium and magnesium that make water hard. Some homes need one, some need both.

Not always. City water is treated and safe to drink. Many homeowners add a whole-house carbon filter for better taste and smell, or a sediment filter if they see grit in fixtures.

Yes. We test before recommending a system, so you only pay for treatment your water actually needs.

It depends on the filter and your water. Sediment and carbon cartridges are often changed every few months to a year. We tell you the schedule for your system.

A properly sized system should not noticeably lower pressure. Undersized filters and clogged cartridges are what cause pressure drops.

Usually hydrogen sulfide in well water, or a reaction inside the water heater. We check both before recommending a fix.

That is usually acidic water reacting with copper pipe. It is common on some Upstate wells, and a neutralizing filter corrects it before it damages your pipes.

Yes. We install, repair and service water softeners. See our water softener page for more.

Yes. We run new gas lines for ranges, dryers, water heaters, tankless units, fireplaces, grills, fire pits and outdoor kitchens.

No. We install and repair gas lines and hook up gas appliances, but repairs to the appliance itself go to the manufacturer or an appliance technician.

Leave the house, do not use switches or flames, and call your gas company or 911 from outside. Call us to repair the line once it is safe.

Yes, if gas service is available at your home. We run a line to the range location and install a shutoff valve behind it.

Tankless units burn much more gas at once than a tank heater. An undersized line starves the unit and causes error codes.

Yes. Every new or repaired line is pressure tested and checked for leaks before the gas is turned on.

It depends on the length of the run, the line size and the route. You get a written price before any work starts.

Yes. We run gas lines to outdoor kitchens, grills, fire pits and patio heaters.

Our phone line answers 24 hours a day, but our plumbers do not work through the night. After hours, our answering service takes your details so you are on the schedule, and the steps on this page help you limit the damage until we arrive.

During business hours, urgent calls go first in line, and we tell you a realistic arrival time when you call. After hours, our answering service takes your details so an emergency plumber is on the schedule first thing.

Our phone line answers around the clock. Plumbers are dispatched during business hours, and urgent calls are put first in line. After hours, shut off the main and call; our answering service takes your details and the office follows up as soon as it opens.

Close the cold water valve on top of the heater and turn off its gas valve or breaker. Then call us. A leaking tank cannot be patched and usually needs replacement.

Know where your main shutoff is, insulate exposed pipes before freezing nights, replace rubber washing machine hoses with braided ones, and have your plumbing inspected once a year.

Shut the water off at the meter box near the street. It usually needs a meter key or a wrench. If you cannot turn it, call your water utility (Greenville Water, Spartanburg Water or your local provider); they can shut it off at the meter.

If the leak is between the street and your meter, call the water company. If it is anywhere between the meter and your house, or inside, call us.

Lift the tank lid and push the flapper down to stop the water, then turn the valve behind the toilet clockwise. Do not flush again until the clog is cleared.

Open the faucet the pipe feeds and warm the pipe with a hair dryer or space heater, starting near the faucet. Never use an open flame. If a pipe has split, shut off the main before it thaws.

In the humid Upstate, often yes. A dry crawl space protects pipes, floor framing and insulation, and can make the house above feel less damp.

Usually yes. Sealing the space keeps outside air out; the dehumidifier removes the moisture that is already there and any that gets in.

Yes. We install, repair and replace sump pumps, including battery backups.

It helps. A sealed crawl space stays warmer in winter than a vented one, which lowers the risk of frozen pipes.

Yes. We repair any plumbing leaks under the house before the liner goes down.

Most crawl spaces take one to three days, depending on size and access.

Ask us about the warranty on the liner and equipment when we quote your crawl space.

We can remove damaged insulation and recommend the right approach for your crawl space.

Once a year is a good rule, and before buying a home or after a major leak.

Before the first hard freeze, usually by early November in the Upstate.

At least 55°F. For long absences, shut off the main and have the lines drained.

Yes, for most homes. It removes sediment and helps the heater last longer.

Most homes take one to two hours, plus time for a sewer camera inspection if needed.

Yes. A camera inspection shows roots, cracks, sags and breaks, and is one of the most valuable checks before buying an older home.

Yes. You get written findings, with prices for anything that needs repair.

Yes. We can repair or replace what the inspection turns up, often before closing.

No. A home inspection covers the whole house briefly. A plumbing inspection goes deeper on the plumbing systems that cost the most to fix.

Yes. Our Real Estate Division handles pre-listing inspections and repair quotes for agents.

Members get a yearly plumbing safety inspection of the water heater, fixtures, pressure, drains and visible plumbing.

Yes. Ask about inspections for commercial and multi-unit properties.

The plan is $275 a year.

When you call with a problem, members are scheduled ahead of non-members.

Members get 10% off repairs and 50% off the service call fee, on top of the yearly safety inspection.

Ask us for the current terms when you join; we explain exactly what is covered before you sign up.

The VIP Prevention Plan is for homes. Businesses and property managers can ask about our commercial maintenance programs.

Members have access to 0% financing options on larger repairs and replacements. Terms depend on approval.

Yes. Many landlords put each rental on the plan so small problems are caught between tenants.

Ask us about the plan terms when you join; we keep it simple and explain them up front.

We serve Anderson and much of the county, including Powdersville, Williamston, Pendleton and Belton. Call and we will confirm your address.

Yes. Ethical Plumbing holds South Carolina mechanical contractor license CLM.117181 and general contractor license CLG.127052.

Yes. We repair water lines, water heaters, wells and fixtures in homes around Lake Hartwell, including homes used part of the year.

Keep the heat on, insulate exposed pipe, and shut off the main water when you leave. For longer absences, we drain the lines for you so nothing is left in the pipes to freeze.

Yes. We repair and replace well pumps, pressure tanks and controls. New wells are drilled by a licensed well driller.

Your water provider handles its side of the meter. Leaks between the meter and your house are the homeowner’s, and we repair those.

Our phone line answers around the clock, and urgent calls go first in line during business hours.

Yes, along with Inman, Lake Bowen, Chesnee and the rest of northern Spartanburg County.

Yes. Ethical Plumbing holds South Carolina mechanical contractor license CLM.117181 and general contractor license CLG.127052, and our lead plumbers are licensed at the Master level.

Many builder-grade tanks last 8 to 12 years. If yours is leaking, rumbling or running out of hot water, we price repair and replacement side by side.

Often, yes. A properly sized tankless unit ends cold showers for the last person in line. We are Navien certified.

Yes. We repair and replace well pumps, pressure tanks and controls. New wells are drilled by a licensed well driller.

We clear and repair the drain line between the house and the septic tank. A septic company pumps the tank.

Our phone line answers around the clock, and urgent calls go first in line during business hours.

Yes. Ethical Plumbing holds North Carolina license L.38212, along with our South Carolina licenses.

We serve Brevard, Pisgah Forest, Cedar Mountain, Rosman and much of the county. Call and we will confirm your address.

Keep the heat on, insulate exposed pipe, and shut off the main water when you leave. For long absences, we drain the lines for you so nothing is left in the pipes to freeze.

Yes. We repair and replace well pumps, pressure tanks and controls. New wells are drilled by a licensed well driller.

That usually means acidic well water reacting with copper pipe. A neutralizing filter corrects it before it damages your plumbing.

Yes. We install leak sensors and automatic shutoff valves that close the main water line when a leak is detected, so a leak cannot flood a home no one is in.

Yes. We serve Henderson and Polk counties too, including Hendersonville, Flat Rock, Fletcher, Tryon and Saluda.

We serve Easley, Pickens, Liberty, Central, Clemson and much of the county. Call and we will confirm your address.

Easley Combined Utilities handles its side of the meter. Leaks between the meter and your house are the homeowner’s, and we repair those.

Yes. We repair and replace well pumps, pressure tanks and controls. New wells are drilled by a licensed well driller.

Iron and sediment are common in Upstate wells. We test the water and install a filter matched to what it shows.

Yes. We repair aging pipe and drains in older Easley homes, and price repiping when the pipe is failing throughout.

Our phone line answers around the clock, and urgent calls go first in line during business hours.

Yes, along with nearby Simpsonville, Greer and Mauldin.

Homes built in the late 1980s and early 1990s often do. It is usually gray plastic, sometimes stamped PB. We can check on a visit and price repiping.

Yes. Most Greenville Water homes do not need a softener, but some add a whole-house filter for taste. We test first.

Our phone line answers around the clock, and urgent calls go first in line during business hours.

Yes, along with Simpsonville, Five Forks, Mauldin and Gray Court.

Yes. Older Fountain Inn homes often have galvanized pipe and cast iron drains. We repair what can be repaired and price repiping when needed.

Yes. We serve Gray Court and nearby parts of Laurens County.

Yes. We are Navien certified for gas tankless. For all-electric homes we install the Essency EXR.

Our phone line answers around the clock, and urgent calls go first in line during business hours.

Yes. We serve the City of Greenville and the surrounding area, including Taylors, Greer, Mauldin, Simpsonville, Berea, Wade Hampton and Travelers Rest.

Greenville Water handles leaks on their side of the meter and in the street. Leaks between the meter and your house are the homeowner’s, and we repair those.

Greenville Water is known for its high quality. Most city homes do not need a water softener, though some add a whole-house filter for taste. Homes on private wells are a different story, and we test before recommending anything.

Yes. Older Greenville homes often have cast iron drains and galvanized supply pipe. We repair what can be repaired and price repiping when the pipe itself is failing.

Yes. Our phone line answers around the clock. During business hours, urgent calls go first in line. See our emergency plumbing page for what to do while you wait.

Yes. We handle service, maintenance and renovation plumbing for offices, restaurants, hotels and multi-unit properties.

Yes. We serve all of Greer, plus nearby Taylors, Duncan, Lyman and Wellford.

Greer CPW handles leaks on its side of the meter. Leaks between the meter and your house are the homeowner’s, and we repair those.

Yes. We repair well pumps, pressure tanks and controls, and the plumbing between the well and the house.

Yes. We provide service, maintenance and renovation plumbing for offices, restaurants, hotels and multi-unit properties.

Greer is right next to our Taylors shop, so it is one of our quickest drives. Urgent calls go first in line during business hours.

We serve Hendersonville, Flat Rock, Fletcher, Mills River, Laurel Park, Etowah and much of the county. Call and we will confirm your address.

Insulate exposed pipe, keep crawl space vents closed in hard freezes, let faucets on outside walls drip, and keep the heat on. If a pipe keeps freezing, we can insulate or reroute it.

Yes. We repair and replace well pumps, pressure tanks, pressure switches and control boxes. New wells are drilled by a licensed well driller.

Iron, manganese or slightly acidic water is common in mountain wells. A water test tells us which, and a filter matched to it fixes the problem.

Shutting off the main water and draining the lines is the safest choice for a home left empty. We drain the lines for second homes; call 864-438-0525 to schedule it before the first hard freeze.

Yes. We serve Transylvania and Polk counties too, including Brevard, Pisgah Forest, Tryon, Columbus and Saluda.

Yes, along with nearby Simpsonville, Five Forks and Greenville.

If you have had more than one leak in a year, low pressure, or polybutylene pipe, repiping is worth pricing. We show you the repair and repipe options side by side.

In older Mauldin neighborhoods, roots in clay or cast iron sewer lines are the usual cause. A camera inspection shows where, and a repair at that spot stops it.

Yes. We handle service and maintenance for businesses and multi-unit properties along the I-385 corridor and beyond.

Yes, along with nearby Taylors, Greer and the Paris Mountain area.

Homes built from the late 1970s to the mid 1990s often do. It is usually gray plastic, sometimes stamped PB. We can check on a visit.

Our Taylors shop is minutes away. Urgent calls go first in line during business hours.

Yes, along with Liberty, Six Mile, Dacusville and the rest of Pickens County.

Yes. We repair and replace well pumps, pressure tanks and controls, and test well water before recommending filtration. We do not drill new wells.

Foothill homes see harder freezes. We insulate, reroute or protect the pipes that keep freezing.

If you have galvanized pipe, low pressure or repeated leaks, repiping is worth pricing. We show you repair and repipe options side by side.

Our phone line answers around the clock, and urgent calls go first in line during business hours.

Yes, along with nearby Easley, Piedmont, Williamston and Greenville.

Yes. We clear and repair the drain line between the house and the septic tank. If the tank is full, a septic company pumps it.

Our phone line answers around the clock, and urgent calls go first in line during business hours.

Yes, along with Five Forks, Fountain Inn, Mauldin and the area along Harrison Bridge, Fairview and Woodruff roads.

Homes built from the late 1970s to the mid 1990s often do. It is usually gray plastic pipe, sometimes stamped PB. We can check on a visit and price repiping if needed.

Many tanks last 8 to 12 years. If yours is leaking, rumbling or running out of hot water, replacement usually costs less than repeated repairs. We give you both prices.

Our phone line answers around the clock, and urgent calls go first in line during business hours.

We serve Spartanburg and most of the county, including Boiling Springs, Inman, Duncan, Lyman, Wellford, Roebuck, Moore, Woodruff, Campobello and Landrum. Call and we will confirm your address.

Yes. Ethical Plumbing holds South Carolina mechanical contractor license CLM.117181 and general contractor license CLG.127052.

Spartanburg Water handles leaks on its side of the meter. Leaks between the meter and your house are the homeowner’s, and we repair those.

Yes. Older homes with galvanized or mixed pipe are good candidates for repiping when leaks keep coming back. We plan the job in writing first.

Yes. We repair well pumps, pressure tanks and the drain line to the septic tank. Tank pumping is done by a septic company.

Yes. We are Navien certified for gas tankless and size each unit to your home. For all-electric homes we install the Essency EXR, an electric on-demand water heater.

Yes. We handle service, maintenance and renovation plumbing for businesses and multi-unit properties.

Our shop is at 416 Waddell Road, Taylors, SC 29687. Call 864-438-0525 before stopping by, since our plumbers are usually out on jobs.

We are based here, so Taylors is usually our quickest drive. During business hours urgent calls go first in line, and we give you a realistic arrival window when you call.

Yes. Older Taylors homes often have cast iron drains and patched supply lines. We repair what can be repaired and price repiping when the pipe itself is failing.

Yes. We are Navien certified for gas tankless and size each unit to your home. For all-electric homes we install the Essency EXR, an electric on-demand water heater.

Yes, along with the Paris Mountain area, Marietta, Slater and northern Greenville County.

Yes. We repair and replace well pumps, pressure tanks and controls. New wells are drilled by a licensed well driller.

Our phone line answers around the clock, and urgent calls go first in line during business hours.

Yes, along with Taylors, Greenville and the Paris Mountain area.

If you have galvanized pipe, low pressure or repeated leaks, repiping is worth pricing. We show you repair and repipe options side by side.

In older Wade Hampton neighborhoods, roots in clay or cast iron sewer lines are the usual cause. A camera inspection shows where.

We are based next door in Taylors, so it is one of our quickest drives. Urgent calls go first in line during business hours.

Not for apprentice or office roles. Plumber roles require a license, or progress toward one.

Our shop is in Taylors, SC. Field roles work across the Upstate and, for licensed staff, western North Carolina.

Yes. Apprentices work alongside licensed plumbers on real jobs.

Use the application form on this page and attach your resume. You can also email it to support@ethicalplumbing.com.

Send your resume anyway. We keep it on file and reach out when a position opens that fits.

The office is open Monday to Friday, 7:00am to 5:00pm, and phones are answered until 8:00pm. After hours, our answering service takes your call.

Our phone line answers around the clock, but our plumbers do not work overnight. After hours, the answering service takes your details so you are on the schedule.

Yes. Use the Book a visit button on any page to pick a time.

support@ethicalplumbing.com. For leaks, no water or sewer backups, please call instead.

Use the commercial bid request page, or call the office and ask for a commercial estimate.

Financing is provided by GoodLeap, a national home improvement lender. You apply on GoodLeap’s secure website, and GoodLeap makes the credit decision.

You make at least the minimum monthly payment for 12 months. If you pay the full balance within those 12 months, no interest is charged. If you do not, interest accrues from the start of the promotional period, is added to the balance, and the loan becomes a standard installment loan for the rest of the 10-year term.

Use the payment estimator on this page: slide to your project amount and each plan shows an estimated monthly payment. Your actual rate, term and payment depend on your credit and are shown by GoodLeap before you accept.

Larger plumbing projects such as water heater replacement, tankless water heater installation, whole-home repiping, sewer line and water line replacement, and water filtration. Ask your plumber whether your project qualifies.

Yes, but it helps to have your written price first, so you apply for the right amount. Our plumber can walk you through both plans on site.

Members of our VIP Prevention Plan have access to 0% financing options on larger repairs and replacements, subject to approval.

Our installations come with a 1-year craftsmanship guarantee on our work. Equipment carries the manufacturer’s warranty, such as 6 years on Bradford White tanks and up to 20 years on Essency tanks. VIP Prevention Plan members get a 10-year warranty on all materials and services while their membership is active.

Bradford White tank water heaters have a 6-year limited tank warranty. The tankless water heaters we install have 15 years on the heat exchanger and burner chamber and 5 years on all other components. Essency heaters have a 20-year tank warranty. Every installation also gets our 1-year craftsmanship guarantee.

Usually not. Most manufacturer warranties cover the tank or the failed part. We handle the claim and swap for you, with a written price for the labor and any code updates before we start.

Yes. Extended warranty options are available on many installations. Ask your plumber, and the options and prices appear on your written estimate.

We cannot see inside a line before we clear it. Collapsed pipe, low spots, roots or other defects can stop a line from clearing or make the clog come back. A sewer camera inspection shows the cause so it can be repaired.

Yes. Pressure outside safe limits damages fixtures, valves and water heaters, so no warranty applies to work done while pressure is out of range. Installing a pressure regulator fixes it.